The review heaps mostly praise on Spanish Chef Jesús Núñez and the restaurant. Sifton writes that rather than focus on classical Spanish cooking, his attention “appears to be centered on art and architecture, on a playful response to culinary tradition rather than an allegiance to it.”
Dishes are described throughout as “beautiful,” “delicious,” “a joy to eat,” and “surreal.” The only real blemish in the review were appetizers that involved a cauliflower “egg white” and wheat-gluten bacon, which “disappoint.”
Looks like a nice addition to the neighborhood for higher-end eating.
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Tags: Graffit, Jesus Nunez, new restaurant, Sam Sifton, Upper West Side, UWS